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- Cosmetic chemist says: there is no blue pigment shortage
- How formulation choices shape foundation undertones
- The scientist who shifted foundation color science
- Brands and products known for cooler or neutral undertones
- Practical tips for finding or fixing the right foundation shade
- Reaction online: experts and shoppers weigh in
A Los Angeles cosmetic chemist’s short video has reignited a debate about whether makeup is warming up because brands can’t find blue pigment. The clip offers a scientific rebuttal, points to historical breakthroughs, and has drawn big reactions from beauty pros and shoppers alike.
Cosmetic chemist says: there is no blue pigment shortage
Javon Ford, a cosmetic chemist with a growing social audience, pushed back on claims that a lack of blue pigment is forcing warmer foundations. In his video, he walked viewers through the supply-chain and formulation facts.
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- Ford contacted multiple global pigment suppliers. None confirmed a shortage.
- He named ultramarine blue as the typical blue used in complexion products.
- Ultramarine is made by reacting sulfur with kaolin clay and other common ingredients.
His conclusion: the raw materials are available. The real reason many foundations look warm is formulation choice, not scarcity.
How formulation choices shape foundation undertones
Many brands simply do not add blue pigments to their base formulas. That choice affects the perceived warmth or coolness of a shade.
Why some manufacturers skip blue
- Complexion formulations are delicate; some pigments are trickier to work with.
- Cost is cited by some, but critics note major brands can absorb small ingredient costs.
- Marketing and existing shade systems can lock teams into warm-leaning palettes.
Ford pointed out exceptions. Brands like L’Oréal and several prestige lines intentionally include blue undertones to achieve truer deep shades.
The scientist who shifted foundation color science
Balanda Atis, a chemist at L’Oréal, developed a technique that changed how deep skin tones are formulated. Her work introduced controlled ultramarine use to build depth without ashiness.
What her research proved
- Standard mixes of white, yellow, red, and black often produced muddy results.
- Adding measured ultramarine gave richer, more accurate undertones.
- L’Oréal created a dedicated lab to expand shade ranges as a result.
Atis’s innovations led to dozens of new shades across major labels and helped normalize broader inclusivity in shade matching. One high-profile outcome was a Lancôme shade that gained public attention through celebrity campaigns.
Brands and products known for cooler or neutral undertones
Consumers and pros weighed in on which lines deliver cooler, olive, or blue-tinged options.
- L’Oréal-owned brands (notably some Urban Decay and Lancôme lines)
- Dior and Giorgio Armani — cited by users as including blue undertones
- Indie and niche labels such as About Face
- Certain Korean base products, recommended for olive or cooler tones
If a brand doesn’t offer the undertone you need, mixing in specialized blue or cool-toned adjuster drops can help correct warmth.
Practical tips for finding or fixing the right foundation shade
- Test formulas in natural light to spot undertone mismatches.
- Try small drops of blue-correcting pigments to neutralize excess yellow or orange.
- Ask pro makeup artists for shade-adjustment tricks and product recommendations.
- Look for brands that list undertone information clearly in product descriptions.
Reaction online: experts and shoppers weigh in
Viewers responded strongly to Ford’s explanation. Many thanked him for the clear breakdown. Makeup artists confirmed they regularly tweak formulas with adjusters.
- Some commenters rejected the “blue is too expensive” defense for big companies.
- Others recommended specific brands they’ve had success with.
- Several users praised Ford’s factual approach and chemistry knowledge.
The conversation highlights two trends: curiosity about ingredient science and growing pressure on brands to offer truly inclusive shade ranges.
